Alaska and the Rockies One-Two Punch

Arrive at Calgary, Alberta, where you pick your rental and the airport. Then, head west to the town of Banff (1:30 hr drive).

Banff is located within Banff National Park, within a dramatic mountainous landscape. The town offers all the necessary services – excellent visitor center, expensive travel fashion stores, great pizza and anything in between.

Overnight: Banff, AB

*Note: travelers landing in Calgary later in the day are advised to spend the night in the Calgary airport area, and head to Banff the next day.

Full exploration day in the area around Banff. You could start your day at the Johnston Canyon, about 25 mins drive north of town along the scenic Bow Valley Parkway (which is also an excellent wildlife viewing area). Johnston Canyon is one of the popular destinations in the Rockies, and for a good reason – a dramatic hanging walkway overlooks the river below, and offers easy access to a series of blue pools and waterfalls. Given the popularity of the place, it’s best to come here early.

Other potential destinations around Banff include a trip up Sulphur Mountain with the Banff Gondola, an easy walk by the beautiful Vermillion Lakes, a visit at the Bow Falls near the center of town, a scenic drive on the Minnewanka Loop road, or taking a dip at the Banff Hot Springs.

Overnight: Banff, AB

Optional add-on: Scenic Heli flight over Mt. Assiniboine Provincial Park

Banff has quite a selection of local operators offering numerous day tours, including rafting, horse riding, guided hiking and so on. One of the best options is to take a helicopter ride over the area, allowing for a totally different view of the mountains around you. The best destination is the neighboring Mt. Assiniboine provincial park, adjacent to Banff National Park. Mt. Assiniboine itself is a distinct triangular shaped mountain (3611 m above sea level), surrounded by turquoise lakes and glaciers. Flights are about 30 mins long, and depart from the town of Canmore (20 mins south of Banff). Cost: 347 CAD per person, 173 CAD per kids ages 6-12.

Today, drive up north along the Icefields Parkway to the town of Jasper. The road is considered as one of the most scenic drives in the world, and for a good reason: along the way you’ll see countless waterfalls, rivers, hanging glaciers and towering peaks. Numerous viewing areas are scattered along the road, allowing for frequent stops for panoramic views, walking and photography. Wildlife sightings along the way are also frequent – most commonly Bighorn sheep, mountain goats, elk, and sometimes bears as well. The driving distance is 290 km (180 mile), but it’s best to plan for a long day so you could enjoy this beautiful drive with no rush.

The day ends at the town of Jasper, located within Jasper National Park. This is the northern center for tourism in the Canadian Rockies, and although it’s a bit smaller than Banff, it offers similar services and atmosphere.

Overnight: Jasper, AB

Today, tour the magnificent mountains and lakes of the Maligne Valley, on the eastern side of Jasper NP.

The day starts with a drive along Maligne Valley Road, a 46 km (28 mile) long road that starts close to the town of Jasper. This road offers very good chances for wildlife viewing (bears are commonly seen here, along with elk and Bighorn sheep). Your first stop is Maligne Canyon, a 50-m deep slot canyon formed as the Maligne River eroded a soft layer of limestone. A well maintained trail parallels the canyon, crossing the ravine over small bridges in a number of places.

South of Maligne Canyon, the road will take you along the pretty Medicine Lake; this lake has a series of underground outflows, resulting in the lake emptying out naturally every year towards the end of the summer.

The road ends in Maligne Lake. The south side of this lake offers some of the best scenery in the Rockies, and is only accessible by boat. The boat ride (included in your package) departs around mid-day and takes about 1:30 hrs RT. The destination is a well-known spot called “Spirit Island”, a tiny island (in fact, most of the time it’s a tiny peninsula) surrounded by steep mountains and cliffs. The boat will stop here for a quick photography break, then head back to the docks at the north side of the lake.

Once out of Maligne Valley Road, head back to Jasper. If you’re up for a little afternoon extra adventure, consider a visit to Miette Hot Springs, roughly an hour drive northeast of Jasper.

Overnight: Jasper, AB

Today, explore the western side of Jasper National Park. You can start the day with a visit to Mt. Edith Cavell, a beautiful peak accessible via the Edith Cavell Road. Not far away from the parking lot at the top of the road lays Angel Glacier, a hanging glacier flowing into a large lake. If you’re up for a longer hike, this is also the starting point of the Cavell Meadows trail, one of the best trails around Jasper.

Other options for today include driving to the impressive Athabasca Falls, taking the Jasper Skytram up Whistlers Mountain for a great look of the Jasper area, or going on a walk in the popular Valley of the Five Lakes trail (where you visit, well, five lakes). Rafting trips, horseback rides, bike rentals and canoe rentals are also available from Jasper.

Overnight: Jasper, AB

Today you’ll head back south along the beautiful Icefields Parkway. Your destination is the little village of Lake Louise, in the heart of Banff National Park. You could use the drive to stop in points of interest you had no time to explore on the way up. If you’re up for some fantastic hiking, consider the Parker Ridge trail or the Wilcox Pass trail, both within the vicinity of the Columbia Icefield Discovery Centre.

If you arrive early enough, consider an afternoon trip to the neighboring Yoho National Park. The main attractions here include the Takkakaw Falls (254 m / 833 ft, this one is a biggie), the aptly-named Emerald Lake, the spiral tunnels that allows the railroad to go across Big Hill, and Natural Bridge, where the Kicking Horse river digs its way through a soft layer of rock and creates, well, a natural bridge.

Overnight: Lake Louise, AB

Lake Louise and Moraine Lake are probably the most well known locations in the Canadian Rockies, and for a good reason. Both lakes display marvelous shades of turquoise and blue, and enjoy a stunning background of steep cliffs and snowy peaks.

Lake Louise is a starting point for a number of great hiking trails: One fantastic option is the hike up to Lake Agnes, a tranquil lake hidden in the mountains above Lake Louise. A fun little tea house located along the lake offers some well-deserved rest, and if you’re up for the task you can continue beyond the lake to the Big Beehive or to the Little Beehive, two of the best view points in the Rockies, overlooking Lake Louise below. Another great option is the Plain of Six Glaciers trail, which you can use if you with to explore the far side of Lake Louise. The trail hugs Lake Louise shoreline and then climbs up the mountainside, offering some great views of the giant mountains and the hanging glaciers above.

Of course, hiking is not the only option – you could rent a canoe, ride horses, or simply enjoy the view from the classic accessible viewpoint by the Fairmont hotel. Good views of Lake Louise are also visible from the Lake Louise Sightseeing Gondola, in the ski resort across the valley from the Lake Louise village.

Moraine Lake is located a short drive beyond Lake Louise, and offers comparable (and some say even better) scenery. Most visitors here go up to an easily accessed viewpoint called “The Rockpile” (a few minutes away from the parking lot). However, this area also has some great hiking options, including the easier Consolation Lake Trail, or the harder trail up to Larch Valley and Sentinel Pass. If you happen to arrive here in September, keep in mind that Larch trees turn gold-yellow in the fall, and this trail is possibly the best option to experience fall colors in the Rockies.

Note that the parking space by the lakes is limited – in recent years Canada Parks has been operating a shuttle service to allow better public access to these popular locations. The shuttles depart a special parking lot near the village of Lake Louise, and tickets should be purchased in advance (see here for details).

Overnight: Lake Louise, AB

This morning you’ll have some free time for last-minute exploring in Banff National Park or in Banff itself. Then, head east to Calgary and continue to the next leg of your journey – the city of Vancouver. The flight is approx. 1:30 hour long, and you’ll be in Vancouver by the afternoon.

Vancouver is the largest city in the province of British Columbia. Located along the Pacific coast with a background of the snowed-out Coast Mountains, this is one of the loveliest cities in North America.

Overnight: Vancouver, BC

Today, explore Vancouver’s downtown area. Among the sites worth visiting are the historic Gastown area (with its famous Steam Clock), the Vancouver Lookout (187 m / 613 ft high), the marketplace in Granville Island, The Chinese garden of Dr. Sun Yat-Sen, or the flight simulator FlyOver Canada, located in Canada Place.

Of course, the city also offers quite a selection of museums, including the Museum of Vancouver (local history) and the Museum of Anthropology. If you feel the need for some shopping, Robson Street is the main shopping and entertainment hub.

Overnight: Vancouver, BC

Vancouver enjoys a wide selection of natural areas in and around the city, many of which in North Vancouver. You can start the day at the Seawall, Vancouver’s north walkway, where you could go biking or go on an easy walk. Then, continue north to one of the city’s well-known attractions – Capilano Suspension Bridge Park. Other than the impressive suspension bridge that the park is named after, you can also enjoy the Treetop Adventure (a “squirrel’s eye view of a thriving coastal forest”), the newly structured Cliffwalk, and even a cool salmon hatchery. Not far away from Capilano is Grouse Mountain, another popular destination with some unique lookout points overlooking the city of Vancouver.

Overnight: Vancouver, BC

Optional add-on: Victoria day tour

Victoria, BC’s capital, is located on Vancouver Island, directly west across the water from the city of Vancouver. One of the prettiest cities in Canada, Victoria’s city centre is very attractive, compact and European in style. The major attractions here are the fancy BC Parliament House, the Royal British Columbia Museum, and of course, the world-famous Butchart Gardens (located a short drive out of town). Victoria is accessible either by ferry or by floatplane, and day tours are available from Vancouver.

Costs:

• Ferry-based day tour: 215 CAD per person.
• Floatplane-based tour: 470 CAD per person.

Today, bid farewell to Canada and head up north to your next destination – Alaska.

Your first stop, the city of Anchorage, is not the capital of Alaska (that’s Juneau), but it’s by far the biggest city in the state, and home to about half of the population. Most car rentals companies offer airport pickup, with the exception of some local agencies who are located a short taxi ride away.

If you arrive early in the day, consider a visit to either the Anchorage Museum of History and Arts, or the Alaska Native Heritage Center. Then, head out of Anchorage to the neighboring small town of Palmer, where you’ll spend the night.

Overnight: Palmer, AK

Your destination today is Wrangell-St. Elias National Park – a huge park that forms a part of the largest natural reserve complex in the world (along with adjacent parks in Canada and Alaska). The Park contains some of the tallest mountains in North America, the highest of them all being Mount St. Elias (18,000 feet).

The town of McCarthy and the ghost town of Kennicott, only five miles apart, are located in the heart of the park and getting to them is an adventure in itself.  The only road into the east side of the park is the Mccarthy Road, a scenic and narrow gravel road with a rather rough reputation. While that reputation is not always deserved (it used to be much rougher in the past), most rental car companies won’t allow you to take their vehicles here. The alternative way to enter the park is via small planes, always a popular mode of transportation in Alaska. Accordingly, leave your car in the Chitina airport, and catch a 35 mins flight with a bush plane to McCarthy. In fact, flying is the best way to understand this park: Some of the glaciers and mountains here are so large, that you can only truly comprehend the landscape if you fly over it.

McCarthy is a tiny outpost that developed alongside the Kennecott mines, super-rich copper mines which operated here in the early 20th century and eventually abandoned in the 1930s. The difficult access prevents this area from becoming a big-numbers tourist attraction, which is exactly how the locals want to keep it. Accommodations can be found in Kennicott or in McCarthy.

Overnight: Kennicott / McCarthy, AK

A short walking distance from the deserted ghost town of Kennicott lays the white ice of the Root Glacier. This will be your playground for the first half of the day: The local guides will meet you in the morning, and lead you on the 2 mile hike along the glacier to the access point. You’ll spend the next few hours hiking, observing and photographing the glacier’s unique landscape: waterfalls disappearing into the ice, ice caves, turquoise pools and super-clear meandering streams. You’ll get the professional gear (crampons and gloves) from the guides; the physical challenge is not more extreme than a regular hike and the whole experience is a true highlight. The tour ends back in Kennicott around 2-3 pm; group size is typically 8-10 people. Extended tours and / or privately guided departures are available at an extra cost (and if you truly feel adventurous, ask us about the ice climbing option).

The afternoon could be spent in a number of ways: you could tour the remnants of Kennicott’s deserted buildings independently, or you could do it as a guided tour (*not included). Tours are about 2.5 hrs long and are well worth the effort and the minor extra cost. Another great option is to take the shuttle down to Mccarthy and visit the local bar for an evening of live music and loud locals.

Overnight: Kennicott / McCarthy, AK

This morning, fly back from McCarthy to Chitina (35 min. flight). Once reunited with your vehicle, drive back to the Richardson Highway, the scenic road that connects Fairbanks in the north to Valdez in the south.

The road takes you south along the mountain views of Thompson Pass and Worthington Glacier, then into the steep and narrow Keystone Canyon, where huge waterfalls come down crashing the canyon walls. Valdez itself is located at the east side of Prince William Sound, a gorgeous bay full of glaciers and wildlife.

The sound earned some unwanted international attention in 1989, when the oil tanker Exxon Valdez caused a catastrophic oil spill and an environmental disaster that lasted for decades. Today the damage is not visible to the eye and most of the wildlife is back to pre-1989 population size, but in a community where most folks work either in the oil industry or as commercial fishermen, this is still an open wound.

Overnight: Valdez, Alaska

Located in the northeast corner of Prince William Sound and not too far from Valdez, Columbia Glacier is one of Alaska’s biggest tidewater glaciers. This impressive giant has been receding rapidly in recent years, leaving behind a narrow bay choked with blue ice.

Today’s tour departs Valdez before noon. The destination is the humongous face of the Columbia Glacier, where one can witness some impressive (and sometimes outright crazy) calving activity. The captain will maneuver the boat as close as possible to the glacier’s face (safety first, of course), allowing for some fantastic photo ops. Occasionally the ice in front of the glacier can become too thick to go through, but the scenery is wonderful nevertheless. The boat is quite spacious (two decks, covered and heated), light lunch is included, and the tour is about 6 hours long.

During the morning or the evening hours, consider a quick drive from Valdez to the opposite side of the bay, where the Salomon Gulch Hatchery is located. The hatchery itself, producing millions of salmon annually, is interesting enough; that said, the major attraction is often the wildlife exploiting the situation. Have fun, take lots of photos and keep your eyes open – bears are often seen here, along with otters, sea lions, seals, bald eagles and many other birds, mostly gulls and kittiwakes.

Overnight: Valdez, AK

The morning starts with an early ferry ride from Valdez to Whittier, across Prince William Sound. Whittier, a quirky little town, is not much of a destination on its own right; however, it’s worth noting that virtually all residents of this town live in one apartment building (don’t worry, you won’t miss it!). Whittier is connected to the rest of Alaska via a narrow tunnel which is used alternately by vehicles and trains. The tunnel is very well monitored so the risk of meeting the train in the middle of the drive is not high; still, it’s an interesting ride.

On the other side of the tunnel lays the beautiful and glacial Portage Valley; stop here and check out the displays at the visitor center, or go for a walk on one of the valley’s many hiking trails. After visiting the valley, continue south to the town of Seward.

Seward is located at the edge of Kenai Fjords National Park, a coastal area dominated by the vast Harding Icefield. Glaciers extending from the icefield towards the sea created a series of deep fjords, rich in wildlife and extremely photogenic. On the way to Seward you could stop for a hike in one of the many hiking trails along the way, or spend the afternoon on a stroll along the Seward waterline. If you like staring at big fish, Seward’s fishing charters typically return to the harbor around 6:00 pm; you can see the charters crews filleting their catch by the water, to the delight of outside visitors and local gulls alike.

Overnight: Seward, AK

The road to Homer will take you along a scenic stretch of the Chugach Mountains, then along the Cook Inlet shoreline. Weather permits, you could expect some great views of the big volcanoes (11,500-13,000 feet) across the inlet. Your destination, the charming town of Homer, Alaska, is literally the end of the road.

Katmai and Lake Clark National Parks lay on the west side of the Cook Inlet, across the bay from Homer. These two wild parks are arguably two of the best locations in the world to view bears in the wild. Today’s plan is to go on a day trip to one of these parks and spend a few hours with the furry giants also known as the coastal brown bears of Alaska.

The brown bear is not a social animal by any mean, but every summer, when the salmon begin moving upstream, big concentrations of bears are formed along the rivers. These bears will spend most of the summer fishing and competing for fishing and mating rights. Busy with their fishing agenda and concerned mostly with the presence of other bears, the bears are generally very tolerable of human presence. This does not mean you should approach them too closely, of course – these are still very wild and very big animals – but it allows for an unforgettable wildlife viewing experience.

The exact destination of the trip is determined by the local operators in Homer the day before (and sometimes, the day of) departure, based on bear activity observed in each area. Both Lake Clark and Katmai National Parks are not connected to the road system, so arrival at the bear viewing location is done using a variety of small aircraft, including (but not limited to) floatplanes, helicopters and wheeled planes capable of landing on the beaches during low tides. The super-scenic flight will take you over some serious mountains, glaciers and active volcanoes, and is a highlight on its own right. The tour is usually led by the pilot or by a professional guide, unless the destination is Brooks Camp, where park rangers oversee the site and direct the visitors.

Once the tour is over, you’ll fly back to Homer.

Overnight: Homer, AK

Your destination today is the town of Girdwood, about 45 minutes drive south of Anchorage. The road to Girdwood runs parallel to Turnagain Arm, a narrow bay known for its panoramic views and extreme tides. This is also a great area for wildlife viewing, especially beluga whales and Dall sheep.

A ski town in winter, Girdwood turns during summer into a hub for local outdoor activities. Overlooking the town is Mt. Alyeska, and you can take the tram to the top and enjoy some excellent views of the area. The Crow Pass Trail, one of Alaska’s best hiking trails, is right out of town (4-6 hours RT). If you’re looking for a flatter hiking experience, Winner Creek Trail offers a fun walk in the rainforest. Other options include bike rentals, dog sledding, helicopter flightseeing tours, and some surprisingly good dining options.

Overnight: Girdwood, AK

Drive back north to Anchorage and enjoy another look at the beautiful views along the Turnagain Arm. The trip ends at the Ted Stevens International Airport in town, where you return your rental car and begin the journey back home.